A Gastronomic Journey at Caxton Grill: Where Familiarity Meets Innovation in Westminster
Dining out in London is an experience rich with possibilities, a true culinary adventure waiting to unfold. For me, a memorable restaurant visit typically falls into one of two distinct categories. On one hand, there’s the delightful indulgence of a classic dish, elevated to a superior, more decadent version of something I might attempt at home – think a perfectly crafted gourmet burger, perhaps with a mountainous heap of exquisitely seasoned chips. It’s comfort, but with an undeniable touch of luxury and expert execution.
On the other hand, and arguably more captivating, is the pursuit of the truly unusual. This involves daring culinary explorations, dishes crafted with rare ingredients, and innovative flavour combinations that challenge the palate and expand the culinary imagination. While I appreciate the comforting familiarity of the first, it is undoubtedly the latter that sparks a deeper curiosity and often leads to the most unforgettable dining narratives. This quest for the extraordinary recently led me to the elegant doors of Caxton Grill, a distinguished establishment nestled within the enchanting St Ermin’s Hotel, right in the heart of Westminster.
My visit to Caxton Grill was prompted by Bookatable, offering an exciting opportunity to experience their ‘Star Deal’. This particular offer presented a tantalising three-course meal, complete with a celebratory glass of prosecco, all for a very reasonable £32 per person. It promised not just a meal, but an accessible entry into the world of fine dining, making a sophisticated experience attainable without an exorbitant price tag.
Caxton Grill: A Glimpse into Westminster’s Culinary Gem
Located within the historic and beautifully restored St Ermin’s Hotel, Caxton Grill benefits from an address synonymous with elegance and tradition. The hotel itself, a striking architectural marvel in Westminster, exudes a charm that transports guests to a bygone era of sophistication. Stepping into the Caxton Grill, one anticipates an extension of this refined atmosphere, a culinary space that complements the grandeur of its surroundings.
Our evening commenced not directly in the dining room, but in the inviting and comfortable bar adjacent to the restaurant. This space offered a moment of repose, a perfect prelude to the meal ahead, boasting an impressive selection of wines and an extensive array of spirits and other libations. It was a relaxed environment, setting a pleasant tone for the evening’s culinary exploration.
As the appointed hour arrived, we were gracefully ushered to our table and promptly presented with a beautiful glass of prosecco. There’s something inherently luxurious and celebratory about starting a meal with sparkling wine, an immediate uplift to the spirits. However, as we settled in and took stock of our surroundings, a slight sense of understatement pervaded. While the service was impeccable – attentive, friendly, and professional – and the menu certainly intriguing, the overall ambiance felt somewhat subdued. We had perhaps envisioned a more vibrant or distinct ‘vibe’ to match the promise of the hotel and the menu’s creativity. Nevertheless, the warmth of the hospitality and the anticipation of the food soon overshadowed any minor reservations about the decor.
A Culinary Prelude: Starters That Impress
Part of the excitement of a new dining experience, especially when reviewing, is approaching the menu with fresh eyes, without the preconception of having scrutinised it online beforehand. I was particularly delighted to discover one of my personal favourites among the starter options: smoked ham hock with a slow-cooked egg and vibrant summer peas. While some might consider it a relatively “safe” choice, the true measure of such a dish lies in its execution. Caxton Grill’s rendition was anything but mundane; the ham hock was tender and richly flavoured with a beautiful smokiness, perfectly complemented by the creamy, almost custardy texture of the slow-cooked egg, and the refreshing sweetness of the peas. It was a masterclass in elevating a classic.
My dining companion, Brad, opted for the foraged mushroom croquet, a choice that leaned more towards the adventurous side and proved to be equally outstanding. The croquet boasted a beautifully crisp exterior, yielding to an earthy, deeply savoury mushroom filling within. The “foraged” aspect added an intriguing element, hinting at a dedication to quality and unique ingredients. Both dishes were presented with a style I could only describe as “refined chaos” – artfully arranged with an appealing visual dynamism that was both lovely to behold and added an element of playful elegance to the start of our meal.
Main Courses: Elevated Classics and Unexpected Indulgence
Moving onto the main courses, the menu continued to surprise and delight with its innovative interpretations of comfort food and European classics. Brad’s choice was a dish that took the concept of creaminess to an entirely new echelon: truffle macaroni, crowned with a perfectly crispy egg. This was not merely mac and cheese; it was a sophisticated symphony of rich, earthy truffle notes permeating velvety pasta, with the contrasting texture and flavour of the fried egg adding a layer of luxurious depth. Each spoonful was an exercise in indulgence, proving that familiar dishes can indeed be transformed into gourmet experiences.
For my main, I was thrilled to discover veal schnitzel with buttered capers and lemon as an option. Having recently returned from a trip to Berlin, where schnitzel is practically a national institution, I consider myself something of a connoisseur, well-versed in distinguishing between a good schnitzel and a truly exceptional one. It is with considerable confidence, then, that I can declare Caxton Grill’s veal schnitzel to be extraordinarily well done. The breading was impeccably crispy, golden brown, and adhered perfectly to the succulent, tender veal. The delicate flavour of the veal was enhanced, not overwhelmed, by the bright tang of lemon and the salty burst of buttered capers. It was everything I had hoped for in a perfectly executed schnitzel – a testament to the kitchen’s skill and attention to detail, easily rivalling some of the best I’d encountered abroad.
A Sweet Conclusion: Light, Refreshing Desserts
No fine dining experience is complete without a memorable sweet ending, and Caxton Grill delivered wonderfully. Dessert options were both elegant and thoughtfully balanced. One choice was a classic lemon tart, elevated by the vibrant addition of blackcurrant sorbet (as captured in our first photo). The tart offered that perfect zing of citrus, cutting through the richness of the previous courses, while the intensely fruity and slightly tart blackcurrant sorbet provided a refreshing contrast, cleansing the palate beautifully.
The other option was a matcha green tea parfait, complemented by the exotic zest of yuzu. This dessert was a delightful exploration of delicate flavours and textures. The matcha provided a subtle, earthy bitterness, characteristic of high-quality green tea, which was harmoniously balanced by the bright, aromatic, and distinctly citrusy notes of yuzu. Both desserts were light and utterly refreshing, serving as the ideal, sophisticated culmination to what had been a truly wonderful and satisfying meal.
The Art of Transformation: Making the Familiar New Again
As I reflect on the entire dining experience at Caxton Grill, it strikes me that some of the dishes, when merely listed – ham hock, veal schnitzel, lemon tart – might initially sound quite conventional. One might even wonder if they truly align with the promise of “unusual” and “innovative” cuisine. However, this is precisely where the genius of Caxton Grill lies, and what makes it such a noteworthy destination for modern European dining in London.
The true distinction and value of this establishment are found not just in the menu choices themselves, but in the meticulous quality of the ingredients, the undeniable creativity woven into every plate’s presentation, and, most importantly, the chef’s bold willingness to pair diverse and sometimes unexpected flavours. This meticulous approach elevates familiar dishes, transforming them from mere comfort food into something entirely new, exciting, and memorable. It’s a culinary philosophy that proves that innovation doesn’t always have to mean completely reinventing the wheel; sometimes, it means perfecting and reinterpreting the classics with such skill and flair that they feel fresh and exhilarating once more.
This commitment to excellence, coupled with the impeccable service received throughout the evening, made our visit to Caxton Grill an experience well worth the trip to Westminster. It confirmed that the Star Deal from Bookatable offers not just value, but a genuine opportunity to savour high-quality, thoughtfully prepared cuisine in a refined setting. For anyone seeking a dining experience in London that expertly balances the comforting with the creative, Caxton Grill at St Ermin’s Hotel presents a compelling and delicious proposition.
(I was asked to review Caxton Grill by Bookatable. I was reimbursed for the meal, however all opinions remain my own.)